Drain Cleaning
Discharge routes and the lines that carry them.
About this serviceEast Texas
Every pool gets drained or lowered eventually, and the question of where several thousand gallons of treated water is allowed to go is answered badly more often than not. The wrong answer is a hose into the street.
24/7 dispatch · Whitehouse · Smith County
A storm drain is not a treatment system. Anything put into one reaches a creek exactly as it left, which is why chlorinated or salt pool water going into the street is a genuine problem rather than a technicality, and why it is restricted.
The routes that are generally acceptable: to the sanitary sewer through an approved connection at a controlled rate, or onto your own ground where the volume can soak away without reaching a drain or a neighbour, after the chlorine has been allowed to dissipate.
Dissipation is the easy part. Stop adding chemicals and leave the pool a few days, ideally with the sun on it, and the free chlorine falls away on its own. Salt pools need more thought, because the salinity does not dissipate and it is hard on planting.
Rate matters as much as destination. Emptying thousands of gallons into a lawn in an hour creates a bog and sends the rest to the street anyway. Slow is the whole technique.
Where a sanitary discharge is the right answer, it needs a proper connection rather than a hose pushed into a cleanout. A cleanout is an access point, not an inlet, and using one that way can push water the wrong way into the house.
What works is a purpose-made connection with an air break, so nothing can be drawn back toward the pool equipment, discharging at a rate the lateral can take alongside the household's normal use. Backwash lines from a filter are the common permanent version of this, and on many properties that connection already exists and simply needs proving.
Check with the sewer provider before a full drain. Some will allow it, some will ask you to do it at a particular time or rate, and some will not permit it at all. It is a short phone call and it is far better than a conversation afterwards.
Whatever route is used, never leave a discharge running unattended overnight. Every bad story about draining a pool involves a hose nobody was watching.
The other half of this is the pool itself. An empty pool in wet ground can lift, because the shell is a boat and the groundwater under it is water. A fibreglass shell will float readily and a concrete one can crack or shift. This is a real risk here after a wet spell.
So a full drain is a decision, not a maintenance task. Most of the reasons people empty a pool, replacing water with high dissolved solids, dealing with an algae bloom, or preparing for a surface repair, can be handled by lowering it partially instead, and partial draining carries none of the same risk.
Where a full drain genuinely is needed, it is done with the water table in mind, usually in dry weather, and with the hydrostatic relief valve in the floor working as intended. A pool professional should be part of that conversation, and we handle the discharge side of it.
Do not forget the equipment. Pumps run dry destroy themselves quickly, so power off before the level drops below the skimmers is the order that saves an expensive part.
We fit and prove proper discharge connections, including backwash arrangements that will not siphon back toward the pool, and we will look at whether the lateral can take the rate you want to discharge at before anything is opened.
Where the answer is that the sewer route is not available, we will say so and set up a slow discharge to ground that keeps the water on your property.
Whitehouse, Tyler, Bullard and Flint are all inside our normal area.
One last thing worth planning for: refilling. Putting several thousand gallons back through a household service takes many hours and can affect pressure for everyone in the house while it runs, and on a shared rural line it affects the neighbours too. Fill overnight where you can.
FAQ
No. A storm drain runs straight to a creek with no treatment, so chlorinated or salt water going into the street is a restricted discharge rather than a neighbourly nuisance.
To the sanitary sewer through a proper connection at a controlled rate, or slowly onto your own ground where it can soak away without reaching a drain or a neighbour, after the chlorine has dissipated.
Stop dosing and give it a few days in the sun. Free chlorine falls away on its own. Salt is different: the salinity does not dissipate, and it is hard on planting.
No. A cleanout is an access point, not an inlet, and using it that way can push water back toward the house. A proper connection with an air break is what is needed.
Ask before a full drain. Some providers allow it with conditions on timing or rate, and some do not permit it. The call is short and it settles the question.
Not always. An empty shell in wet ground can lift or crack, which is a real risk here after a wet spell. Most reasons for draining can be met by lowering the level partially, which carries none of that risk.
Usually for a surface repair or extremely high dissolved solids. Do it in dry weather, with the relief valve working, and with a pool professional involved in the timing.
It ran dry. Power off before the water level drops below the skimmers, because a pump without water destroys itself in a very short time.
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Settle where it goes first, and lower slowly. Both mistakes here are expensive.
Ask about a pool discharge